Smoothing Treatment Science

At Hair Undone, we prioritize hair health over all else. This is why we have chosen the Amika Smooth Over Treatment as our only choice for smoothing treatments. Smooth over uses Glyoxilic acid to smooth the hair shaft and in today’s blog we’ll discuss the benefits.

Glyoxylic acid is used as a less harsh alternative to traditional formaldehyde-based keratin treatments. It works by modifying the hair’s keratin structure to make it smoother and more manageable. Here’s how glyoxylic acid smooths the hair:

Penetration into the Hair Shaft

  • Keratin Interaction: Glyoxylic acid penetrates the hair shaft and interacts with the keratin proteins. Keratin is the primary structural protein in hair, and its arrangement determines the hair’s shape and texture.

Formation of Cross-links

  • Chemical Bonds: Glyoxylic acid forms cross-links with the keratin proteins. These cross-links alter the structure of the hair, reducing frizz, but maintaining hair shape. The new bonds help to straighten and smooth the hair, making it more manageable and easier to style.

Heat Activation

  • Flat Ironing: After applying a glyoxylic acid-based treatment, heat (typically from a flat iron) is used to activate the smoothing process. The heat helps to lock in the changes to the hair’s structure, sealing the cuticle and creating a smooth, shiny finish.

Temporary Changes

  • Non-Permanent Effects: Unlike traditional keratin treatments, which can last several months, the effects of glyoxylic acid treatments are usually temporary. They typically last 6-8 weeks, depending on hair type and care routine.

Gentler Alternative

  • Less Harsh Chemicals: Glyoxylic acid is considered to be a gentler alternative to formaldehyde-based treatments. It does not release harmful fumes, making it a safer option for both the user and the stylist.

Benefits

  • Reduced Frizz: By smoothing the cuticle and altering the hair’s protein structure, glyoxylic acid reduces frizz and enhances shine.

  • Improved Manageability: The hair becomes easier to style and manage, with reduced curl and wave patterns.

  • Safety: Glyoxylic acid treatments are generally safer for both clients and stylists compared to traditional formaldehyde-based treatments.

Considerations

  • Temporary Effect: Since the smoothing effect is not permanent, regular maintenance treatments are needed to sustain the smooth texture.

  • Heat Use: The use of heat is essential to activate the treatment, so individuals who frequently use heat styling tools may benefit more from this treatment.

Smoothing Treatment & Cut by Brianna C.

Overall, glyoxylic acid provides a safer, gentler alternative for achieving smoother, more manageable hair, with fewer health risks compared to traditional formaldehyde-based treatments. Ask your stylist if this treatment would work well for you!